Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.